Kumano Kodo

The landmarks of Kumano Kodo

15 landmarks, in walking order. Each photograph is by the person credited beneath it, used as they licensed it.

1. 

   0 km in · Start

   Takijiri-oji

   The stone gateway where pilgrims purified themselves before entering the sacred Kumano mountains — the traditional start of the Nakahechi.

2. 1 km in · Landmark

   Nezu-oji

   A short way above Takijiri stands the ruined site of Nezu-oji, the first of the subsidiary shrines on the climb. Only a marker remains among the cedars. The forest is dense and the path steep. Pilgrims once stopped here to catch their breath before the long ascent to Takahara.

3. 

   7 km in · Landmark

   Daimon-oji

   The 'great gate' shrine, where a vermilion torii once marked the threshold of the holy precinct.

4. 9 km in · Landmark

   Jujo-oji

   Jujo-oji sits on the ridge amid tall cypress, one of the string of small shrines that measured a pilgrim's progress. The name recalls a measure of cloth once offered here. Birdsong fills the green shade. The path rolls on over wooded saddles toward the halfway village.

5. 13 km in · Landmark

   Oosakamoto-oji

   Oosakamoto-oji marks the approach to Chikatsuyu, where the trail begins its descent to the river. The shrine is quiet, wrapped in moss and fern. Terraced fields open below through the trees. The classic overnight halt is close now.

6. 

   14 km in · Landmark

   Gyuba-Doji

   A small stone figure of a boy riding an ox and a horse at once — the pilgrimage's most photographed roadside guardian.

7. 

   15 km in · Town

   Chikatsuyu-oji

   A river-crossing hamlet halfway to Hongu, the classic overnight stop where pilgrims still lodge in family minshuku.

8. 

   20 km in · Landmark

   Tsugizakura-oji

   Guarded by giant cedars up to 800 years old, one of the few oji left standing in its original grove.

9. 

   24 km in · Landmark

   Kobiro-oji

   A quiet shrine on the long forested climb, where the old stone paving resurfaces underfoot.

10. 

    26 km in · Landmark

    Iwagami-oji

    The 'rock deity' shrine deep in the cedar ridges, near the trail's loneliest high stretches.

11. 36 km in · Landmark

    Inohana-oji

    Inohana-oji, the boar's nose shrine, stands on the high country before Hosshinmon in a stretch of deep, quiet forest. The old stone steps climb between the cedars. Few walkers linger. Beyond lies the most sacred gate of the whole route.

12. 

    37 km in · Landmark

    Hosshinmon-oji

    The 'gate of aspiration to enlightenment' — passing it, pilgrims were said to enter the body of the Kumano deity itself.

13. 39 km in · Landmark

    Mizunomi-oji

    Mizunomi means the drinking of water, and a spring beside the shrine still runs clear for thirsty pilgrims. Past Hosshinmon the route drops through tea fields and hillside hamlets. The valley of the Kumano River opens ahead. The great shrine is not far now.

14. 

    41 km in · Landmark

    Fushiogami-oji

    Where the great shrine first comes into view across the valley; pilgrims knelt here to worship from afar.

15. 

    46 km in · Finish

    Kumano Hongu Taisha

    The head shrine of all Kumano — journey's end beneath Japan's tallest torii, where three thousand pilgrim paths converge.